I touched down in Kuala Lumpur at approximately 11:30 am yesterday morning. It was a really good thing I checked my itinerary the night before because I spent the last month believing I would be flying out of Phnom Penh at 2:00pm when I was in fact leaving at 8:30am. I took the airport shuttle from KLIA to the city central with a giant Chinese guy city falling asleep on my shoulder (it was much more pleasant when you were doing that Lauren). When I arrived to my guesthouse I was glad I had only booked for one night. Man that place was a dump (and lonely planet recommended?). It was called Wheeler's Guesthouse and I paid almost ten dollars a night to sleep in a room about the size of a closet with a double bed stuffed into it because they had no dorms left. The cockroaches were complimentary. Suffice it to say, I checked out the next morning and found a guesthouse literally half a block away with a clean, comfortable, air-conditioned dorm room for seven dollars. I'm much more comfortable here, and currently writing this blog in the common room while drinking a complimentary cup of coffee (a big step up from the cockroaches, don't you think?). Lonely Planet, you need to start recommending Explorer's Guesthouse and Hostel and update your freakin' book. Seriously.
Anyway, back on track. Being Kuala Lumpur pretty much makes me feel like I'm no longer in Asia. It's so big, and modern it seems more like you're in a city in the United States or Europe rather than in Malaysia. There are giant shopping malls and skyscrapers everywhere, and far more cars than motorbikes, which are few and far between much to my relief. People are friendly and polite, and I literally have not been touted once. Not for a taxi, not at a market, not for anything. It's amazingly refreshing! Every Western shop, restaurants, and good you could possibly want can be found in KL. From Starbucks, to Subway, to TGIFriday's, I've seen everything!
Yesterday I pretty much spent the entire day exploring the central market and sampling Malay food (which is freaking amazing, by the way). Today, I checked into my new guesthouse and went across the city to see the famous Petranous Towers. Unfortunately for me, the towers are currently closed for renovations until the middle of December, so I couldn't go to the top and get an iconic picture taken on the sky walk, but I did get to visit the shopping mall in the center. Coming to country with a Muslim majority for the first time in my life, the very last thing I expected was pretty much every single place I walked into to be elaborated decorated for the Christmas season. However, that's pretty much what I've been met with.
That's from the inside of the mall near the Petronas Towers in central Kuala Lumpur. Seeing Muslim's dressed in full traditional dress including a hijab line up for pictures with Santa is definitely up there on my list of strangest things I've ever seen. But hey, Kuala Lumpur is a huge multicultural metropolis, and it's awesome to see such diversity.
Petronas Towers
Although there are still a few Asian style markets, such as the central market, shopping malls are a much more common sight. And man, are there a lot of them. I was in a more low market one last night, but the one I was in today pictured above was insanity. I felt more than a little out of place in my old backpacker's clothes walking by places with shoes and handbags that cost more than my flight across the world. Gucci, Chanel, Montblanc, Ralph Lauren; it was all there! And unlike in Vietnam and Cambodia, it was all real. Three thoughts entered my mind simultaneously: 1) I can't afford anything in this mall 2) This is an incredibly good example of the far reaching effects of globalization 3) Mom and Jenna would love this city. Seriously, Kuala Lumpur is like coming to Asia without actually having to be without Western comforts. Although I did see one squat toilet, which even I don't enjoy using, pretty much everything is a huge step up from Vietnam and Cambodia. And to make things better, you can actually shop without being screamed at! And I'm not just talking about in shopping malls, in the markets too! I forget to mention in my previous blog (since it got so long) but the vendors trying to sell you things almost ruined my experience at Ankor Wat. There, you would walk out of a temple and literally be jumped on by ten women shoving goods in your face and saying "you buy! lady you buy! I sell you cheap price!" Even when you clearly went out of your way to avoid them, they would run from wherever they were and just hound you until your driver brought you to the next place. Even when you bought from them they wouldn't be satisfied and would continually hassle you to buy more. Forget browsing, it's more hassle than it's worth. But in KL? Yesterday I spent two hours in the market without being asked to buy something once, and when I was interested in something I actually was able to ask for help. Can you imagine that? Being able to look at things without being hounded to buy them?
I know I'm being slightly harsh, because I do know that the reason vendors act like that in Cambodia and Vietnam is because they are much more desperate for money. But that doesn't change the fact that it's something that can potentially ruin an amazing experience for you, and prevent you from getting things you might actually like to have. And it also doesn't change the fact that I have actually enjoyed shopping in Malaysia thus far, whereas I considered it a burden in Vietnam and Cambodia.
I've really sort of spoiled myself with Western comforts today. Other than spending almost an entire day in shopping malls, I also had coffee at Starbucks, lunch at Subway, and bought a Time magazine from a 7-Eleven. I know it's not what I came to Asia to do, but it's been a lovely break. Today, when I was sitting in Starbucks surrounded by decorations, drinking a holiday themed latte, and listening to Christmas music played on the radio, for just a moment I really felt like I was at home in Canada. I do have to admit, I have felt a bit homesick once in a while during my travels, which is pretty normal, but never more so than I did today. I think at any other time of year it would be easier, but we all know how much I love the holiday season. When I get back, it'll be cool to jump right into it, but the build up is the best part and I feel like my inner clock is telling me it's time to put up Christmas lights and wrap presents rather than haggle for magnets and lay on a beach. Hence, Kuala Lumpur has been nice for me. But it's also been a good reminder to enjoy every moment for the rest of my trip because I know once I'm home and the holidays are over I'll be wishing I was back here. Only two weeks left now, and I'm pretty sure that'll be gone before I know it, if it's anything like the rest of my trip.
I supposed that's it for me now, and I'll just leave you with a few photos from around Kuala Lumpur. I'm heading off to the Cameron Highlands tomorrow for a final respite from the heat before I spend the rest of my trip hopping from beach to beach (jealous?).
Until next time, remember, sometime's the simplest reminders from home are the most comforting.
Sarah
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